More Than Plaid: Tartan’s Enduring Reign on Culture and Fashion
Scott Hutton
Image Credit: Lia Bekyan via Unsplash
From the Scottish moors adorned with kilts, to Vivienne Westwood’s punk rebellion, tartans history has transcended mere fabric. Tartan represents a rich tapestry of heritage, identity, and defiance- becoming an instantly recognisable symbol across the world. But how did this ancient pattern manage to gain such iconic status, and how does it continue to captivate the fashion world of today?
Tartan has consistently taken on new identities and meanings for several fashion designers and subcultures in decades past.
Tartans' Punk Revolution
Making tartan a commodity is what allured the punks of the 70s to wear tartan by realising its power as not only a fashion statement, but also a political one- tartan was worn as a middle finger to British society, revolutionised by fashion icon Vivienne Westwood.
Image Credit: Scott Hutton
Tartan's Reimagining in the 90s
Despite its fleeting presence in the music scene, grunge’s impact on fashion remains undeniable. Drawing parallels to trend-defying eras like the 70s. Grunge even subverted trends, transforming classic tartan into the lighter, more relatable plaid. Ultimately, grunge's fashion influence was about comfort, community, and subtle rebellion. It offered a relatable way to express discontent, leaving a lasting impact even after the music faded.
Image Credit: Roy Luck via Creative Commons
Alexander McQueen’s Boundary Breaking Collection A/W 1995
One of the most influential designers of all time, Alexander McQueen incorporated tartan into many of his collections. McQueen's tartan designs weren't just fashion; they were deeply personal statements. His own tartan symbolized both his Scottish heritage and a critique of its history. He saw it as a representation of the brutal 19th-century "rape" of the Highlands by English landlords. The A/W 1995 "Highland Rape" collection mirrored this with heather-strewn runway and tartan clothes echoing 19th-century styles. Exposed breasts in tartan jackets symbolized vulnerability, while constricting bodices hinted at a lost tradition.
Image Credit: Yves Monrique via Unsplash
The Tartan Legacy​
The recent ‘Tartan’ exhibition at the V&A in Dundee not only serves as a vibrant tapestry of tartan's rich history, but also illuminates its dynamic influence on modern design. From its symbolic roots in clan identity to its contemporary reinvention on haute couture runways, tartan's journey transcends textiles.
The V&A's curation becomes a bridge between the past and present, showcasing how tradition informs innovation, and how a simple woven cloth can spark endless creative possibilities.